Flavorful Journeys
By Anna Kleber-Yilmaz | 7 minutes to read | Updated June 2026
Walking through 1968 lava fields with your kids while Arenal towers overhead — this is the kind of day that makes the whole trip worth it.
MAIN TRAIL
ENTRY FEE
PARK HOURS
Last entry at 2pm
VISIT DURATION
Min. 2 hours up to all day
STROLLER ACCESS
Arenal Volcano is one of the most recognizable silhouettes in all of Costa Rica — a near-perfect cone rising 1,670 meters from the surrounding rainforest. And yet, many visitors skip this national park. Visiting the national park that surrounds it isn’t just about seeing the volcano (though that alone is worth the trip). It’s about walking through the physical evidence of its last major eruption: a landscape of frozen lava flows, regenerating forest, and extraordinary wildlife that uses the rocky terrain as cover and corridor.
For children, the park’s main trail through the 1968 lava fields is something genuinely different from any nature walk they’ve done. The ground is jagged volcanic rock draped in moss and bromeliad. Trees push up through cracks in the lava. Howler monkeys crash through the canopy overhead. It’s dramatic, tactile, and memorable in a way that resonates with kids long after the trip. But make no mistake, this isn’t a stroll through the park, it’s a real hike through the jungle.
Best Visibility Tip: Arenal is notoriously cloud-covered. Your best chance of seeing the summit clear is early morning (7–9am) from November through April. We arrived at 8am on a January morning and had the volcano to ourselves — completely cloud-free. By 11am, clouds had wrapped the summit entirely.
The primary family-friendly trail in the park is the Las Coladas trail (also signposted as Sendero El Ceibo on newer maps). This 1.2 miles / 2km flat loop takes most families 1.5 to 2 hours at a relaxed pace with kids stopping to look at everything.
RANGER STATION ENTRANCE: Pay entry fees and collect a basic trail map. Restrooms are available here — the only facilities on the trail. Guides can be hired at the station for $40–60 if you want expert wildlife interpretation. Park opens at 8am; arrive early for the best volcano views and most active wildlife.
THE 1968 LAVA FIELD: The trail enters the landscape created by Arenal’s most significant modern eruption — July 29, 1968. The black basaltic lava is now mostly covered in moss and pioneering plants, but the raw volcanic terrain is still obvious. Kids love examining the texture and wondering what it looked like when it was molten. Open viewpoints here give clear lines of sight to the volcano on good days.
SECONDARY FOREST TRANSITION: As the trail curves, the lava fields give way to secondary forest that has regrown over the past 50+ years. This transition zone is where wildlife concentrates — coatis forage along the path edges, toucans call from the canopy, and red-eyed tree frogs shelter in damp vegetation near the trail. Howler monkeys are almost guaranteed in this section.
LAKE ARENAL VIEWPOINT: The mid-loop viewpoint opens toward Lake Arenal — the largest lake in Costa Rica and an artificial reservoir completed in 1979. On clear days you can see the lake shimmer against the surrounding hills. This is a great stopping point for snacks and water. The ground is solid and flat — ideal for letting small children run around safely.
RETURN THROUGH THE FOREST: The return leg moves through denser forest, with more shade and cooler temperatures. Agoutis (large rodents that look like short-legged deer) are common here. The trail is well-maintained and flat throughout, with occasional roots and rocks to step over — manageable for children 3 years and older who can walk short distances.
No Strollers on This Trail: The Las Coladas trail surface is volcanic rock with roots, steps, and uneven terrain throughout. It is not accessible for any type of stroller or wheeled carrier. If you’re traveling with a baby or toddler under 2.5 years, bring a structured baby carrier (Ergobaby, Osprey, or similar). Older toddlers (2.5–3.5 years) can walk parts of the trail with adult support but will need to be carried at some sections.
Howler monkeys are very common. You might also see white-faced capuchins.
You might see a sloth occasionally. But they are high up in the trees and hard to spot without a trained eye.
For us, toucans proved to be the most elusive animal. They are regulars though at this national park, so you might be in luck!
A common furry friend in the national park on forest edges.
Here is your reward if you came during rain season. Wet season is this one’s favorite.
Again a friend that hides well. They are common though, so a trained eye will have no trouble spotting them.
The park entrance is located approximately 7.4 miles / 12 km west of La Fortuna town on Route 142, following the signs toward Arenal Volcano. The road is paved and well-marked. Driving takes about 15 minutes from most hotels in the area. Parking is available at the ranger station.
If you’re staying at a hotel further from town, check whether your property has guided tours to the park — many include transport and a naturalist guide.
The trail is well-signed and easy to navigate independently. However, hiring a park guide ($40–60) makes a substantial difference for wildlife spotting — guides have trained eyes that find poison dart frogs, sleeping sloths, and camouflaged birds that most visitors walk right past. If you have children old enough to engage with a guide (5+), we recommend it. With toddlers, self-guided is often easier.
MOST MEMORABLE MOMENT
Walking through lava created within living memory — and explaining to your kids that this black rock was once liquid fire flowing down the mountain — is one of those simple, profound travel moments that sticks with children.
FOR WILDLIFE LOVERS
Coatis (relatives of raccoons with long striped tails) are bold and curious. Groups of them often forage along the trail edge at close range, delighting young children. Don’t feed them, but do photograph them — they’re wonderful.
BEST PHOTO OP
A clear morning view of Arenal’s perfect cone from the lava field viewpoint is one of the most photogenic scenes in all of Costa Rica. Arrive at 8am, fingers crossed for clear skies — when it works, it’s spectacular.
COOLEST ROCK FORMATION
Our 6-year-old called it the “moon landscape” and spent 20 minutes inspecting every moss-covered rock. The tactile experience of volcanic terrain is something you simply can’t replicate — it fired up her imagination all week.
WILDLIFE AT ARM'S LENGHT
We stood still on the trail while a troupe of howler monkeys moved through the canopy directly above us. Looking straight up at a howler monkey mid-roar is an encounter our kids still talk about years later.
THE THRILL OF THE HUNT
Armed with a magnifying glass, our kids spent ten minutes searching the forest floor before our guide pointed one out — a tiny strawberry poison dart frog, brilliant red, sitting on a leaf. Their reaction was priceless.
MORNING PEACE
We were lucky with clear skies. Standing in the lava field with Arenal’s perfect cone filling the sky above us was genuinely awe-inspiring. Even our 4-year-old was speechless for a moment — which is saying something.
NICE PACED HIKE
After the La Fortuna Waterfall’s 530 steps, we were relieved to find a completely flat trail. Everyone walked the whole thing — including our then-3-year-old — without any complaints. Well-paced and perfectly sized for families
NOT A TOURIST HIGHWAY
Arenal Volcano National Park doesn’t draw the crowds other attractions in La Fortuna do. It’s less accessible, more rustic, more real. It just felt like an authentic hike, in the middle of nature. That’s why we loved it.
More from our La Fortuna and Arenal family adventure series.
Everything to do in the Arenal zone for families.
Yes, with some adjustments. The Las Coladas trail (also called El Ceibo) is a 1.2 miles / 2 km flat loop through lava fields and secondary forest that most children 3+ can walk. Babies and toddlers should be carried in a structured carrier — the terrain is not suitable for strollers. The key family-friendly elements are: flat trail, manageable distance, dramatic scenery, and high chance of seeing howler monkeys and coatis.
On clear days — typically early mornings from November to April — yes, the views of Arenal's cone from within the park are spectacular. The volcano is often shrouded in cloud by late morning. The Las Coladas trail has several open viewpoints with unobstructed volcano and Lake Arenal views. Check weather before you go and aim to arrive by 7–8am for the best visibility.
Entry is $15 per adult and $5 per child (ages 6–12). Children under 5 enter free. Costa Rican citizens and residents pay a lower local rate. Payment is accepted at the ranger station. The park is open daily from 8am to 4pm (last entry at 2pm).
No. The Las Coladas and El Ceibo trails pass through 1968 lava fields with uneven volcanic rock, tree roots, and narrow paths. Strollers are not suitable. We strongly recommend a structured baby carrier for children under 3 years old. Older toddlers (2.5–3+) can often walk sections of the trail with help.
The park is excellent for wildlife viewing. Common sightings include howler monkeys (heard and seen year-round), white-faced capuchin monkeys, coatis, poison dart frogs (red and green species), toucans, and various hummingbirds. Agoutis are frequently seen along the trail edges. Take a guide if you are here to spot wildlife. Early morning visits have the highest wildlife activity.